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Welcome to our June Newsletter, which I think you are going to enjoy because: |
IN THIS JUNE 2006 ISSUE:
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Frankly Friends Newsletter Archive
2006|January|April|
2005 |May|
2004 Archive |January| February| March/April|July |September/October
|December |
2003 |December|November| September|
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How to get More Distance
When a golf ball is launched from a club, it follows a trajectory dictated by its speed, launch angle and spin rate. While this is true for all clubs, the discussion properly centers around the driver: With most other clubs, we're concerned about distance control, while with the driver we usually just want to get as much distance as we can. (The three-wood is also a distance club, but when the ball is on the ground we don't have the same options as when we can place it on a tee.) So the question every golfer wants answered is; ‘How can I get the maximum distance -- overall distance, not just carry – out of my tee shots?'To begin with, consider the ball. In the 19 th century, golfers noticed that their solid gutta-percha golf balls went further after they'd been used for a while and acquired some nicks and scrapes. This observation is the reason golf balls have dimples today. Those dimples create a roughened surface, which has significant effects on a ball in flight. Where a dimpled ball will travel 260 yards the smooth ball will only go about 130 yards.
First, dimples reduce the "drag" or resistance on the ball when it's traveling through the air. This is not intuitive because generally, smooth things travel through air and water better than rough things. This would be true even for a golf ball, if it were traveling at speeds less than about 50 mph. But in any normal trajectory off a driver, the ball is traveling considerably faster than 50 mph. before it hits the ground. The reason for this reduced drag is complex, but conceptually it is similar to going through a force barrier. The barrier is broken at a specific speed because the size of the turbulent air tail is reduced in size, and the resistance is cut almost in half.
In addition to reducing drag, dimples create a turbulent layer around the ball so that when it spins – and every golf shot hit in the air has backspin – it drags the air over the ball, creating lower air pressure on the top of the ball than on the bottom producing a lift force greater than the weight of the ball. This allows the ball to glide, rather than to take on the trajectory of a bullet, in the same way that an aircraft wing provides a lift force to get and keep the plane airborne.
So now that we know that dimples and spin are key factors in determining distance along with ball speed and launch angle, how can we optimize these factors to get maximum distance?
- You can't do anything about the dimples, as these come with the ball you selected, and the shape, number, and size for all balls are very similar.
- Next is ball speed. This is also something you have little control of if you are already swinging as efficiently as you can within your physical abilities. So there are only two things left for us to consider: spin and launch angle.
- Spin and launch angle are somewhat linked, because to get a higher launch angle you need more loft, which increases spin. Is this bad? Well, yes if you are already getting too much spin but not a high enough launch angle. This increased spin will increase the height of the trajectory and also increase the drag on the ball, slowing it down. It will make you feel like you are hitting the ball into the wind. The goal, then, is to find the best compromise of lowest spin with highest launch angle. Unfortunately as one goes up, generally so does the other.
After 400 years of trial-and-error experimentation, along came computer analysis of trajectories using aerodynamic properties of spinning balls to help answer the question. It has now been shown that to get maximum distance out of all the club head speed that most of us can muster – around 90 mph without having to tighten our shoe laces – we need to launch the ball higher than we originally thought. The optimal launch angle for that swing speed is between 13 and 14 degrees. Our three wood will often do this better than the driver, and as a result we sometimes find that we actually hit the ball farther with our 3-wood than with the less-lofted driver, which doesn't make sense.Unfortunately, because the length of the three wood shaft is less than the driver and its loft is higher, that club does not project the ball with as much speed AND will cause a higher spin rate. How can we take advantage of the driver's additional length and lower loft to maximize our distance with what should be our longest club?
Our goal with the driver should be to increase its loft to launch the ball at 13 to 14 degrees, while also lowering the spin rate to about 3,000 rpm. We can accomplish this with the aid of the latest generation of big titanium drivers. Most all of them are good clubs and have the trampoline effect which lowers the spin rate so the choice of brand name is almost entirely a matter of personal preference.
Since the driver is the one club in which we are actually swinging up at the ball at impact, we don't have to create all of that 13-to-14 degrees of launch angle with the club face. The loft of the club should be about 10.5 or 11 degrees, or possibly more as your swing speed goes down. To help create the optimal spin rate of about 3,000 rpm we should:
- Choose a ball that has low spin properties off the driver. Titleist NXT or DT Solo, Callaway HX Hot or Big Bertha, Maxfli Red Max or Noodle are some examples of low spin balls.
- Tee the ball a little higher to take advantage of the vertical gear effect by hitting the ball a little above the sweet spot. This gear effect, a vertical cousin of the horizontal effect that causes a draw if you hit the ball towards the toe, allows the club head to twist under the ball, decreasing the spin and also producing a higher launch angle. These improvements in the launch conditions make up for the slightly lower ball-speed that results from imperfect sweet-spot impact.
In other words:
Hit it high and let it fly
What is Frankly The Best WedgeA word from Frank:
“Below you will find some results from our latest “Frankly The Best” Consumer Survey. Over 1,100 avid golfers responded to this survey. Here are some factors I think you should seriously take into consideration:
- LOFT: This is a critical component of wedge selection. It dictates the distances you are capable of hitting the ball with that particular club. So make sure that all your wedge lofts work together so you have a club for the shots you will be presented with on the course.
- BOUNCE: Can be your friend or foe! Make it your friend by understanding that if you generally play in soft conditions you require more bounce on your wedges compared to hard conditions. Your Sand Wedge -- or that wedge you will most often use out of the sand -- definitely needs bounce to assist you in getting out of the bunker and this should be about 14 degrees.
- LENGTH AND BRAND: All your wedges should be around the same length (anywhere from 35-35 ½ inches). They should also be the same brand and model if possible. This will assist you with a consistent feel and performance off the clubface.
- GROOVES: Make sure that the grooves are not worn down on those wedges you will be using to approach the green and where you need good ball control. The grooves on the Sand Wedge if used only out of the sand are not as important to keep in good shape as the rest of your wedges, because in almost every case sand is the interface between the ball and the club from a bunker and the grooves play only a small part.
Hope you find the listing below useful. It is how our Frankly Friends rated wedges and who else is better to provide this information. You bought it and you use it.
Thanks for you support and input.”
“Frankly the Best” wedge
This listing was determined using the highest rating (5 stars) based on customer satisfaction for each brand and ranked accordingly. The usage in each case was similar to the overall distribution of handicaps.
SAND WEDGE (2.6% of respondents indicated they do not carry a Sand Wedge)
#1 Cleveland
#2 Titleist/ Vokey
#3 Ping
#4 Callaway
#5 Mizuno
#6 HoganGAP WEDGE (17.9% of respondents indicated they do not carry a Gap Wedge)
#1 Cleveland
#2 Titleist/Vokey
#3 Ping
#4 Callaway
#5 Taylor Made
#6 MizunoLOB WEDGE (26% of respondents indicated they do not carry a Lob Wedge)
#1 Cleveland
#2 Titleist/Vokey
#3 Ping
#4 Callaway
#5 Mizuno
#6 Taylor MadeWHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT REASONS FOR SELECTING YOUR WEDGE ?
Ranked in order of importance:
#1 Feel
#2 Short shot control around the green
#3 Loft
#4 Bounce
#5 Specific distance needed
#6 Looks and finish
#7 Face markings and grooves etc.
#8 Cost
#9 Recommendation by a friend
#10 Endorsement by a professional
WHO COMPLETED THE SURVEY?
Here is the spread of the handicap level of respondents. Those who completed the survey were avid golfers with 78% playing more that 30 days per year. 96% of respondents were male and 4% female.
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Take part in Frankly the Best Hybrid SurveyWe now know what is; the best Driver; the best Ball; and the best Wedge, we would like you, our Frankly Friends, to tell us what is “Frankly the Best” hybrid.
CLICK HERE to give us your rating.
Thank you for your help and support in our quest to Help Golfers.
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New York Times OP-EDFeedback
Thanks to all of you who commented on my article in which I suggested a 10-club limit in conjunction with a change to course set up for the majors and other professional events.
This will reward distance, only when it comes with accuracy and allow the elite golfers, who the USGA is trying to rein in, to better exhibit their skills. Many of you agree with the sentiment. For some, my thinking is a little radical, but we should let it germinate.
This proposal, I believe to be the path of least resistance as it will cost nothing and there will be no need for complex scientific standards or measurements and all one needs, to abide by the rule is the ability to count to ten. As this is not intended to apply to us mortals it is the very mildest and most acceptable form of bifurcation.
What do you think?(CLICK HERE to read the NY Times OP-ED article.)
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What do you think?What do you think is the best approach which will allow the elite golfers to exhibit their skills and not be rewarded for distance without accuracy?
CLICK HERE to have your say
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Poll Results: Rules in Brief
Results from the last newsletter:
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Why Set a Speed Limit at 150mph? USGA & MOI
Latest news out of USGA HQ is a limit on MOI. Here is my quick take on this:
- I am disappointed that the USGA has adopted a standard to limit the MOI (Moment of Inertia) for wood clubs. I believe it to be unnecessary and does not affect the golfers the USGA is trying to rein in.
- The standard has been revised from the initial proposal of 4,800 gm. cm ² to 6,000 gm. cm ² (a 25% increase to avoid conflict with the industry). With an admission from the USGA technical department that this change doesn’t mean anything in real terms, one might ask then; "Would a violation of the new limit mean anything?" Seemingly not. Also setting the limit so far beyond reach is equivalent to setting a speed limit on our highways of 150 mph.
- Standards should be meaningful and relevant if the governing body expects to maintain its authority and the respect of its constituents.
- There are now rumors that the USGA is considering reversing the size limitation from 460 cc to 250 cc for wood heads. This suggestion/rumor is another example of the silliness we have been exposed to recently.”
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